霞浦，中国的网红“打卡”点和摆拍“圣地”

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霞浦，中国的网红“打卡”点和摆拍“圣地”

王月眉2021年6月29日为唤起人们对中国过去田园风光的回忆而摆拍的照片已成为霞浦县的特产。 Gilles Sabrié for The New York TimesThe morning mist was still thick between the banyan trees when the farmer appeared in the clearing, an ax slung over his shoulder as he led a water buffalo on a rope leash. In the slanting sunlight, unhurried and companionable, the two picked their way through the undergrowth, a vision of the rural idyll.榕树间的晨雾仍浓的时候，农夫在这片空地上出现了，他肩上背着斧头，用绳子牵着一头水牛。在斜射的阳光下，从容友善的农夫和水牛在灌木丛里择路而行，全然一幅田园牧歌景象。Then, when the farmer reached the other end of the clearing, he turned and began his trek again. And again. And again, in a constant loop.然后，当农夫走到空地的另一端时，他转过身来开始往回走。一个来回、又一个来回地循环往复。“Come over here a bit!” called out one photographer on the edge of the glade in southeastern China.“过来一点！”一位站在中国东南部这块林间空地边的摄影师喊道。“That’s the way!” said another photographer, shouting out directions and encouragement.“这样好！”另一名摄影师大声指示并鼓励农夫道。“OK, no need to walk anymore!”“好了，不用走了！”With that, the visitors called it a wrap, satisfied they had gotten the perfect photographs of the bucolic scene.拍下这个场景后，游客们停止了摄影，对得到了完美的田园风光照表示满意。Later, the images would pop up across the Chinese internet, with captions like, “Going to work in the morning light.”这些照片以后会出现在中国的互联网上，还配有诸如“晨曦中去下田”的文字。A few, however, were more honest in their tags: #fakeactionshot. For the farmer (and the buffalo) had only been performing for the tourists and their cameras.但也有少数人给他们的图片带上更诚实的标签：#摆拍。因为农夫（和水牛）只是在为游客和他们的相机表演。为霞浦县一座桥上站满的业余摄影师们划船的当地模特可得到200元的报酬。宣传拍照景点的广告牌。Such staged photo shoots have become the specialty of Xiapu County, a peninsula of fishing villages, beaches and lush hills known as one of China’s top viral check-in points. It is a rural Epcot on the East China Sea, a visual factory where Forex trading for newbie and Currency Code photographers churn out photogenic evidence of an experience that they never had — and that their subjects aren’t having either.摆拍摄影已成为霞浦县的特产。这是一个有渔村、海滩和郁葱小山的半岛，它已成为中国最热门的打卡地点之一，是个位于中国东海岸的主题乐园。业余摄影师们用这个视觉工厂来为他们从未有过的、他们拍摄的对象也从未有过的经历制造图片证据。That buffalo lumbering through the banyan trees? Hasn’t been used to farm in years. The farmer’s outfit? Better for a museum diorama showing how field workers dressed 100 years ago.那头在榕树间笨拙行走的水牛已经好几年没进过耕地了。农夫穿的衣服更像是博物馆立体模型展示的100年前的农夫穿着。Even the mist wasn’t real mist, but smoke generated by burning straw (out of frame).就连晨雾也不是真的，而是（在采景框外）烧稻草产生的烟。Xiapu is a place at once frozen in time and utterly modern — an entire county whose economy has evolved to cater to the demands of the Instagram age. Hundreds of residents have taken their turn as models while more have worked as straw-burners, tour guides and entrance-fee collectors. Between 2008 and 2019, the number of tourists visiting the region, once known primarily for agriculture and fishing, increased 10-fold, according to official statistics.霞浦县既是个将某一瞬间凝固下来的地方，也是个非常现代的地方，整个县的经济已转向迎合Instagram时代的需求。几百名当地居民轮流当模特，还有更多的人从事烧稻草、当导游和收门票的工作。据官方统计数据，前来这个曾经以农业和渔业为主地区的游客在2008年至2019年间增加了十倍。霞浦县新经济带来的工作岗位之一：为模拟拍照所需的薄雾烧稻草。许多居民装扮成以前的农民，有的游客为了拍纪念照也会这样做。The area is not what one might usually think of as a desirable tourist destination. The weather is often cloudy, the beaches muddy and unswimmable.这个地区可能不是人们通常认为值得去的旅游目的地。这里经常是阴天，海滩泥泞，不能游泳。The unexpected appeal of Xiapu, in Fujian Province, arises from a set of factors specific to this moment in China. The country has a growing number of retirees, who are living longer and with more money than ever before. The government is encouraging rural tourism in the name of poverty alleviation. And everywhere, there is nostalgia for a disappearing way of life, in a country modernizing at mind-boggling speed.福建省霞浦县出人意料的吸引力源自中国在这个特定时刻的一组因素。中国的退休人口越来越多，他们比以往任何时候都寿命更长，也更有钱。政府为了消除贫困，正在鼓励乡村旅游。在这个以令人难以置信的速度现代化的国家，到处都有对正在消失的生活方式的怀旧之情。In Xiapu, tour guides herd their charges between villages and mud flats scattered across the county to find the scenic spots that have been prepared as potential photo scenes. At each site, billboards display pictures that visitors can emulate. For those needing more direction, the guides bark instructions about angles and timing through megaphones.霞浦县的导游们带着旅行团在全县的村庄和泥滩间行走，寻找专为游客准备的潜在拍摄景点。每个景点都有展示游客可仿拍图片的广告牌。对那些需要更多指导的人，导游们用扩音器大声地把取景角度和最佳时间告诉他们。Arguments sometimes break out among photographers jostling for the best spot, or after a drone ruins someone’s shot.摄影师们有时会为了争夺最佳拍摄位置发生争吵，有时是因为无人机破坏了某人的取景。Most visitors are Chinese, but Instagram — which the government has banned — is also full of posts by foreign visitors who claim to have glimpsed a bygone China.大多数游客都是中国人，但在被中国政府禁止的Instagram上也充满了外国游客发的帖子，声称他们看到了很久以前的中国。Some photographers come knowing the scenes have been set up for their benefit. Others do not.一些来这里的摄影师知道这些场景是为他们准备的。也有人不知道。制造田园风光的拉渔网模特们每人一次得到100元的报酬。给假渔民拍照的摄影师们。“When they hear that these are staged, their hearts will drop a little,” said Liu Weishun, 40, the manager of a popular attraction where colorful — and never used — giant fishing nets bob in the water.“大多游客听说这个是摆在那边拍的心里会有落差，”40岁的刘维顺说，他是一个很受欢迎景点的经理。“So sometimes I’ll just say, ‘Oh, it’s not the right season,’” he said. “Just to make them feel better.”“后面就换一种方式来说了，‘这个季节没样了’，”他说。“满足他们一下。”During the peak months from April to June, as many as 500 visitors a day pile off tour buses at Mr. Liu’s site, paying $3 each to perch on a brambly hillside overlooking the water. Below, the nets have been swathed in pink and green webbing for extra visual effect.在4月至6月的旅游高峰期，每天有多达500名游客乘坐旅游巴士来刘先生的景点，每个人花20元站在一个俯瞰海水的灌木山坡边。为了增强的视觉效果，山坡下面已被粉红色和绿色的网覆盖。On a recent Monday, a tour group paid $30 extra for a model in a straw hat to row by in a red-, yellow- and blue-striped boat. The group’s guide directed the model’s movements by walkie-talkie.最近的一个周一，一个旅游团额外花了200元，雇了一名戴着草帽的模特，划着一只涂着红、黄、蓝条纹的船从水面上经过。旅游团的导游通过对讲机指挥着模特怎么做。“The photographers have expectations for their work,” Mr. Liu explained. “They need someone in specific positions, in a way that meets their composition needs.”“摄影人对作品有要求，”刘先生解释说。“要求模特，也就是人物在指定的位置上，符合构图的需求。”At another site, in nearby Beiqi village, dozens of visitors crowded onto a four-story viewing platform, forming a thicket of tripods and bulky, arm-length lenses. On the mud flats below, three model fishermen, paid $15 per session, fanned out with large, photogenic turquoise nets in tow.在附近北岐村的另一个景点，几十名游客挤在一个四层高的观景台上，形成了三脚架和长长的笨重镜头构成的阵势。在景台下的泥滩上，三个渔民模特把一张巨大的、上镜的绿松石渔网拉开，每个模特一次收费100元。为了捕捉日出，黎明时分就要起床。中国的退休人口越来越多，他们也有越来越多的可支配收入。拍照间隙的水牛。Some Chinese photographers have questioned the rush to Xiapu.一些中国摄影师对蜂拥到霞浦拍照提出疑问。Dong Zheng, a photography teacher from Hunan Province, traveled there earlier this year with some students who had been asking to visit. Though he took them to the marquee spots, he declined to take pictures there himself.来自湖南省的摄影教师董琤今年早些时候带着一批要求去那里的学生来到霞浦。虽然他带他们去了最重要的景点，但他本人拒绝在那些景点拍照。Instead, he captured more abstract photos of the tidal flats in black-and-white, to distinguish them from the flood of sunset-hued ones. But when he posted his images online, a commenter said he had wasted an opportunity to capture the vivid colors others had.与拍那些充满夕阳色彩的潮滩照相反，他用黑白照片捕捉了潮汐滩的更抽象景象。但当他把照片上传到网上后，一名评论者说，他浪费了一次捕捉别人拍摄到的鲜艳色彩的机会。“I couldn’t even be bothered to reply,” Mr. Dong said.“我是不愿意去回复的，”董先生说。Xiapu’s defenders point to the egalitarian nature of photography there.霞浦的拥护者指出在那里摄影的平等主义本质。Photography “isn’t like other arts that are hidden in an ivory tower, high above everyone else,” said Wang Shimin, a leader of the Fujian Province Photography Association.摄影“不像其他艺术藏于象牙塔而沾沾自喜，高高在上”，福建省摄影协会负责人王世民说。And it’s not as if Xiapu’s Forex trading for newbie and Currency Codes don’t work hard. Tour groups drag themselves out before daybreak to capture the sunrise dappling the water and wait hours for the tide to rise to just the right level.没人说来霞浦的业余摄影师们不努力工作。为捕捉到日出时光芒斑驳的水面，旅游团天还没亮就起床出发了，还会等上好几个小时，让潮水涨到正合适的高度。泥滩上的鱼形是又一个拍照机会。导游用对讲机指挥模特怎么做。“他们需要有人在特定的位置上，以满足他们的构图需求，”一个景点的经理在谈到前来拍照的摄影师时说。There also is a backdrop of truth to the fiction.这些虚构的背后也有一个真实的背景。Mr. Liu’s fishing nets may be props, but there are real crabbers nearby. Another site features a forest of bamboo poles half-submerged in the water, stretching away from the shore in S-shaped rows. Those are real, used in Xiapu’s thriving aquaculture industry for drying seaweed. Some of the models were once farmers and fishermen, or still are.刘先生的渔网也许是道具，但附近真的有螃蟹。另一个摄影点的特色是半浸在水中的竹竿，呈S形从海岸延伸到水里。这些竹竿是真的，是霞浦蓬勃发展的水产养殖业晾晒海带用的。有些模特曾经是农民和渔民，或许现在仍是。Many of the area’s residents are eager to cash in on Xiapu’s popularity, at least while it lasts. But the whims of the internet keep changing, and there are signs that the next generation of tourists may have different tastes.当地许多居民都急于从霞浦成为热门景点中获利，至少在能持续下去的时候。但互联网上的想法在不断变化，有迹象表明，下一代游客可能有不同的品味。Two years ago, Lei Lushou, who lives in the village of Banyueli, decided he wanted in on Xiapu’s tourism boom. He adopted a buffalo that had been headed for the slaughterhouse, hoping to mirror the success of the “farmer” photographers were flocking to see amid the banyan trees.两年前，家住半月里村的雷吕寿决定要从霞浦旅游业蓬勃发展中分一杯羹。他收购了一头原本要被送往屠宰场的水牛，希望能效仿让摄影师们蜂拥而来的榕树下“农民”的成功。But he soon found that many visitors below a certain age weren’t interested in shooting re-enacted pastoral scenes. On social media platforms popular with Newbie traderer people, Xiapu-related posts often feature not fishermen and sunsets, but tourists lounging poolside at the trendy new hotels that have popped up recently.但他很快发现，许多不到某个特定年龄的游客对拍摄重现的田园风光并不感兴趣。在年轻人喜爱的社交媒体平台上，与霞浦相关的帖子里经常出现的不是渔民和日落，而是游客懒洋洋地躺在最近不断涌现出来的时髦酒店的泳池边的场景。Mr. Lei isn’t ready to give up on his buffalo, though. He’s shooting short videos that he hopes will make the animal go viral on Douyin, China’s TikTok.但雷先生还不打算放弃他的水牛。他正在拍摄他希望能让水牛在抖音上走红的短视频。“Once it’s internet-famous, many things will be easier,” he said. “It can be used to livestream, to sell products. After all, this is the internet celebrity age.”“做成网红的话，很多东西比较好做，”他说。“到时候可以直播，带货。毕竟现在都是网红时代。”钟莲娇（音）现年90岁，是畲族人，她靠让人摆拍赚钱。她家的墙壁上贴着一些摆拍的照片。Joy Dong对本文有研究贡献。摄影：Gilles Sabrié王月眉(Vivian Wang)是《纽约时报》驻华记者，此前曾为城市版报道纽约州政治。她在芝加哥长大，毕业于耶鲁大学。欢迎在Twitter上关注她：@vwang3。翻译：Cindy Hao点击查看本文英文版。

Source: 霞浦，中国的网红“打卡”点和摆拍“圣地”