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Author Topic: 他们在抢购什么奢侈品?  (Read 496 times)

EnLong12

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on: September 08, 2020, 06:02:48 PM
他们在抢购什么奢侈品?

艾米:最近中国一些奢侈品零售店出现抢购潮,背后原因是什么?疫情对奢侈品行业的影响大吗?



最近在中国奢侈品名店门口,出现了排长队等待进店的“盛况”,据说引发排队的直接原因,是“据说”一些品牌即将从9月开始提价。“据说”这个措辞也是精准:没有品牌会高调官宣自家啥时候开始涨价,它们往往会悄无声息在官网撤去所有标价,而这种行为意味着零售价格即将被更新。“你也知道,无风不起浪,不可能只有Chanel一家涨价,其他品牌不涨的。”这位要求匿名的专业人士指出,现在中国基本还是头部品牌的店铺在排队,“像路易威登(LV)、古驰(Gucci)、蒂芙尼(Tiffany)、卡地亚(Cartier)、梵克雅宝(Van Cleef & Arpels)等”。我向就职于卡地亚公司的朋友求证,她回复说,“目前,我们没有得到消息说要提价,官方非官方都没有听过。”但是,各家奢侈品对于“涨价”话题,并非避而不谈。香奈儿(Chanel)在今年5月曾向媒体透露,考虑到疫情期间原材料成本增加,将在全球范围内上调手袋和小件皮具的价格,其涨幅在5%至17%之间(以欧元计算),包括其经典手袋比如:2.55、Boy、Gabrielle、Chanel19等手袋款式——我个人判断是,越受欢迎的包袋,总归可以荣登涨价榜单。但是,香奈儿采取了“先斩后奏”的做法:在官宣之前,于中国和欧洲市场默默实行了提价政策,并且还被Purseblog.com爆料,部分产品涨幅高达25%。无可奈何,奢侈品的涨价保密工作,本质上是靓汤演戏——“Mission Impossible”,没可能不透风。在今年5月香奈儿涨价前夕,韩国群众“被迫”冒着疫情风险去排队抢购,其中,不少人是提早给自己买结婚礼物,或者担心未来继续涨价导致自己负担不起。总体来看,闻风而动的消费者,多是那些价格敏感者,他们不分国籍,汇率起伏、价格变动和优惠活动等都可以激发出“走过路过,不要错过”的购买意愿。那些赶在提价前完成采购的幸运儿,当然喜欢众乐,通过社交媒体分享战绩。譬如,卡地亚上一次提价发生在2019年,“小红书”的一位博主就于当年11月19日发文记录,标题为“我的卡地亚涨价啦!!!”,分享她在香港特区购买了卡地亚戒指和蓝气球腕表的价格,并且指出自己亲戚随后在澳门特区购物时已经享受到了新价格。而没有及时抢购的消费者们,应该会有李宗盛的经典歌词盘旋在脑中:想得却不可得,你奈人生何。不过,涨价风云的背后,未必是奢侈品赚翻,恐怕是在疫情期间缓解收入缩水的压力,同时应对生产成本的上涨,以及官宣所指出的避免各国零售价格差异过大。一位接近头部奢侈品供应商的朋友就坦言,涨价基本上就是他们的“margin”不够了呗。另一位接近奢侈品订单工厂的朋友也表示,他们海外工厂在今年3月就接到了涨价的通知。一切的一切,最终就是为了财报好看,难怪奢侈品牌尤其要抓重点区域和关键市场。以LVMH集团为例,最苦的是今年上半财年内,净利润大跌84%(股价也应声大跌),大老板个人净资产也暴跌251亿美元……但是,法国人必须相信苦尽甘来:疫情当前,这个集团把自己最新的男装秀选择在两大主要市场,8月6日于上海举办了露天的本地时装大秀,接下来再前往日本举办另一场男装发布秀,据说日子定在9月2日。这两场秀背后的驱动力是什么?得看它家的财报:亚洲市场在LVMH集团2019年财报中占据30%的比例(比第二名的美国市场还高出6%);作为独立统计的市场,日本占据这个奢侈品帝国业绩的7%。说回奢侈品涨价,无论疫情前疫情后,涨价始终存在。如果消费者还无法忍受涨价?不如了解一下商业史实。《丝绸之路:一部全新的世界史》有一段记录,公元1世纪后半叶,罗马人统计出每年在丝绸上要支付1亿塞斯特斯(古罗马货币单位),进入边疆以外的东方贸易市场——这笔钱是丝绸成本的至少100倍。奢侈品贸易交流和长距离的商业活动,令太平洋、中亚、印度和波斯湾的通道陆续涌现了数个帝国的繁荣。如果说丝绸之路是一种全球化,那么,在重度全球化的今时今日,奢侈品涨价依然是商业世界的生存法则之一。(本文仅代表作者本人观点。未经许可,不得转载。责编邮箱:shirley.xue@ftchinese.com)

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